Hitting the ice at Perito Moreno Glacier

First you hear cracking.

Then you hear a shudder.

Then you hear crashing.

That’s ice falling from Perito Moreno Glacier.

Taking the afternoon bus from El Calafate in Patagonia, Argentina, my newfound friend (from a whale trip) and I ventured out to bypass the tourists (they all go in the morning) and check out Perito Moreno Glacier amongst the light rain and peace and quiet.

It was breathtaking the moment you arrive. On the way you get quick glimpses between the trees as the bus rounds the corners, but nothing can prepare you for the sheer size of this glacier. It certainly competes with Iguazu Falls for the awestruck wow factor.

There are three simple platform trails you can walk along to get different views of the glacier, but one of the best things you can do is sit and watch it. Every 5-10 minutes a piece of ice will collapse and if you give it 30 minutes chances are you’ll see a massive block of ice fall, leaving behind a gap of fresh bright blue ice.

Top Tip: I stayed in an incredible hostel in El Calafate while I visited the Glacier and Torres del Paine (post coming). The hostel was called Hospedaje Lautaro and the owners were the most friendly ones I’ve ever met. Each day the kind lady would ask how your day was and no matter how often she must hear the same stories she was so excited and pleased to hear about my day. On the second day I even had a note and a few toffees on my pillow to welcome me, definitely one way to cheer me up that day! I opted to try their home cooked meals on my second and third night too. After being out in the cold all day I couldn’t think of a better thing to come back to, than a lamb casserole or shepherds pie. Highly recommend you check them out if you’re heading to Patagonia and need a place to stay – but book in advance, they were completely booked out while I was there.